DraughtBusters

Energy saving advice and help

  • About
    • What people say about us
    • A typical DraughtBust
    • Helping to set up other groups
    • Frequently asked questions
    • A DraughtBusters Talk
  • Draught proofing
    • How to get started
    • A Case Study
    • Why draughts?
    • Windows and doors
      • Front Door
      • Draughty roof windows
      • Trickle Ventilators
      • uPVC door problems
      • UPVC window seals
    • Redundant AirBricks
    • Floors
    • Loft and first floor ceilings
    • Loft Traps
    • Pet Flaps
    • What is going on under your bath?
  • Finding Draughts
    • How to survey a building for draughts
    • Problem encountered during 2021/2022
    • Dry lined homes
    • Modern timber frame
    • Victorian terraced houses
    • Chalet Bungalow
    • Cross walled homes
    • Early cavity wall homes
    • Concrete panel houses
    • Solid stone and cob homes
  • Help Reducing Energy Use
  • Advanced Air Sealing
    • Problems with Drylined Homes
      • Problems with dot and dabbed walls
      • Around openings in walls
      • Draughts in the first floor void
    • Going Further
      • First Floor Void
      • Condensation mini case study
      • Controlling your heating system
      • Heat loss from unused chimneys
      • Types of damp in the home
      • Draughts and condensation
      • In House Winter Cooling Systems
    • More Advanced
      • Upgrading to Underfloor Heating
      • Lead Pumping
      • Why so many flat roofs fail
      • Summer Condensation
  • Contact

Upgrading to Underfloor Heating

Hello,yes, I can offer advice on underfloor heating in your existing solid floor kitchen.

I built my house ten years ago without a heating system so my kitchen is under heated too. It is warm enough due the very high levels of insulation and the no draughts at all methodology employed during construction. 

 
My first points of advice are to ensure that you have done all the necessary draught proofing and air sealing, next is to upgrade insulation. Both of these two actions will reduce the heat loss from your kitchen, possibly sufficiently so that you don’t need to increase the heat input.
 
Floor insulation is rare but in my view essential with underfloor heating as the floor becomes the warmest place and in some cases more heat (which you pay for) escapes downwards than upwards where you want it. I would like to see several hundred millimetres of insulation underneath underfloor heating pipes, there are thin systems available but generally the screed thickness recommended is between 65 and 75mm, plus any reasonable amount of insulation means digging up the floor and starting with it again. The only viable time to economically do this just before refitting the kitchen, it could be done by refitting the existing one, either way it will be hugely disruptive. 
 
The cheaper option would be to draughtproof and insulate   and then add more heat input via larger or additional radiators providing the boiler can cope. If space is an issue then fan convectors may work for you or plinth heaters.
 
 
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